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Tour de Mont Blanc

TMB - as seen by Liz

There is a tale going round the Alps this year about a very small English Lady with a very big pack. This is her story.

Back in the Spring, when I was wondering what to do for a summer holiday after a 'free' trip to Sierra Leone, a small paragraph appeared in the newsletter looking for volunteers for two weeks on the Tour de Mont Blanc in early September and I thought it seemed a good idea as it was something I had wanted to do ever since a skiing trip to Courmayeur nearly 20 years ago.

Letters, e-mails and faxes were exchanged and four of us (Len, Andy, Geoff and myself) met up at Geneva airport on 1st September.

After a night in Geneva Youth Hostel we had a training walk to the station to catch the train to Chamonix. No problems until we tried to buy tickets on the train; the man only had one ticket, not enough to go round so the American lady got it and we got ours after we had changed trains. (Note: you can't use English credit cards in the French automatic ticket machines).

We stocked up with food etc, had a picnic in the middle of Chamonix and then Geoff decided we had time to start walking that afternoon so we got back on the train for the short journey to Les Houches where it began to get serious.

The track up to Col de Voza goes steeply up the hill and I was soon well in the rear and wondering if I would be able to keep up with the mountain goats ahead of me. Not to worry, a combination of stops by all and the old adage 'slow and steady wins the race' I made it to the col to discover there were easier ways up for the non-purist (ski lift, road or train). The hotel on the col was closed so after a refreshing beer or two, we headed downhill to a dortoir for the night.

Next morning we had an early start, downhill first and then uphill to join the main route just past the bridge over the Bionassay. I was soon at the back again but it did have the advantage of breakfast being prepared by the time I caught up. Over breakfast we had time to admire the spectacular scenery close to including Mont Blanc. We then headed up to Col de Tricot on a very pretty track before heading down to our next (beer) stop at Miage, a long way down from the col; have you heard about people needing to rest on the way DOWN! Next up again but not very much to Truc with lots of stops to admire the views. Then, the final descent to Contamines to spend the night at the C.A.F. hut.

By the time the warden arrived to book everyone in, it was almost dark outside and we had all sorted out the accommodation, we were eating our self-catered meal as were others and the rest had gone out to eat.

That night it rained and thundered, and it was still raining and thundering in the morning with the clag right down. We togged up in waterproofs and tried to keep all our kit as dry as possible (have you still got that bright pink polly bag Len?) We followed the river past a church which Geoff told was a tourist landmark and then carried on uphill in the rain to a not very cheery welcome at Chalets de Balme for warming drinks. Back out into the mist and rain again and we were able to keep Len in sight (think pink) as we climbed to a very cold sleety Col de Bonhomme where Len was huddled into the small hut waiting for the rest of us. We left the relative shelter of the hut and followed the waymarks across the hill as the mist got thicker and the snow got slightly deeper. First a hut shaped rock, before finally a rock shaped hut shadow appeared and we had arrived at the Refuge. With the promise of better weather the following day, we decided to stay the night there, hoping to go over Col des Fours rather than go down to Les Chapieux the next day. Perusal of the guide book revealed the tale of a party holed up in the Refuge for three days because of snow.

The evening's entertainment included the fire alarm going off (no-body went outside) but next day was not the expected bright weather and we waited until several other parties had located the route (down) before venturing out into the winter landscape. Visibility had improved by the time we got down to the road ready for our next quick march to les Mottets for a late lunch. I was dreaming about a ham omelette but the menu was soup and bread or bread and soup so we all had soup and bread and very good it was too. Suitably refreshed, we headed up to Col de la Seigne. As it was a fairly steep ascent, I decided to take off my nice warm fleece and walk in my short-sleeved T-shirt. As usual, I brought up the rear, and by the time I got to the col, I was ready to put more clothes on. (not being certain of my ability to get my pack on again without help on the way up) We crossed the border into Italy (no controls) and headed down to Elisabetta hut with promises of an easy day to follow. The weather was much better and we were able to get glimpses of Peutery as it came out of the mist. That evening we cooked in the entrance to the hut, boil in the bag washed down with beers.

Next morning was cold and icy but sunny and yes, it was an easy day; downhill to start with and then up to the Col Checrouit. Initially we were accompanied by a herdsman trying, not very successfully to persuade his cattle to follow him to higher pastures with the offer of salt to lick. One cow preferred my sweaty forearm or it may have been the sun-block, we got to the col eventually for refreshment and then followed a somewhat ad hoc path down through the skiing area to Courmayeur where we were able to book into a hotel with baths. Geoff and I managed to lose Len and Andy while we searched for bars and a supermarket (We found both). We re-grouped in time to arrange a venue for the evening meal. The Tunnel restaurant does the most enormous pizzas, must go there again.

Neil (Len's son) was due to join us the next morning provided he could get over from Chamonix so Andy Geoff and I left Len to meet him and set off for the high-level route over Mont de la Saxe and the head of Val Ferret. The route up is very steep and the Italians have forgotten to put in most of the zigzags. Before you leave the trees, there are some very nice seats which you have to use (how can you refuse) but after that there is always the excuse of the scenery as Mont Blanc appears out of the clouds. The high point of the day is the airy ridge just before the col, character-building with a big rucksac. On the descent to the valley floor we were rewarded with goods views of marmots. We debated doing a bivvy but the hotel at Arnuva was too good to miss and boasted fantastic showers and delicious potato and cheese soup. Len and Neil rushing to catch us up opted for the hardier bivvy accommodation; a pity it rained, but at least we now know the weakness in the design of the club's bivvy bags.

On again and not surprisingly up again the next morning over the border to Switzerland where we caught up with Len and Neil who had set off earlier and passed us unknowingly whilst we were having a luxury breakfast in our warm dry hotel. Another easy day down to La Fouilly. We caused confusion at the dortoir by only two people having evening meal but five wanting breakfast. You had to sit at the same table and were supposed to all eat together. The next day's trip to Champex was very pleasant through the woods and villages until you cross the road and begin the ascent; you can see where you have to go and it's a long way up. We made it for lunch and beers before the dortoir was open and had time to do a pub crawl before the evening meal. It got very cold late on and we awoke to our second snowfall meaning another adjustment to the plan; down the 'Bovine' route rather than over the Finentre d'Appette.

This was a good route with spectacular views of Martigny far below. An alternative route was suggested by a red tape across the path but the wise stepped over the tape and kept straight on following the path to Forclaz. The not so wise turned right at the tape and descended to the road and then going uphill to the Col. Three of us arrived by the quicker route and got us all booked in to the dortoir. We discussed the missing Popes over a beer or 2 and decided to go and look for them but they arrived just as we were about to set off, so it was back to the bar.

Next morning was cold and bright and we plodded along on the level along a path that was being repaired to reach the first stop of the day. Suitably refreshed (coffee this early in the morning - What do you take us for? Alcoholics?), we continued up the hill with views of the Finentre denied to us by the previous day's snow. After a concreted path and handrail, we arrived at our next refreshment stop where coffee was self-assembly; a thermos, a jar of Nescafe, milk powder and sugar in a dainty china basin. At 2 Swiss francs for 2 cups it was a bargain. Onwards towards the Col de Balme with some rocky bits not ideally suited to short legs. After more sustenance, it was a long downhill all the way to Tre le champ only to find there was no room at the Inn. We were directed back to Montroc to a fine dortoir.

Going down one day means going up again the next and then some; first to Lac Blanc via several iron ladders and wooden steps. It was necessary to make frequent stops for photography as there were fantastic views of the Mont Blanc massif. After lunch and a stroll round the lake, we continued to la Flegere for our last night on the Tour.

Our objective for the last day was the ascent of Brevant which we could see intermittently through the mist a long way above us. Things improved with time and the sun came out before we reached the summit. We were able to spend some time watching a couple of chamois feeding quite close to the edge of the path; they seemed unconcerned about their audience.

And finally - THE DESCENT.

Geoff had been telling us how awful it was almost from day one. Yes it was 6000 feet down to the valley floor, yes it took a long time but at least we could admire the views and stop to eat at Bellachat. Eventually we got back down to Les Houches and journey's end. In France you can even get the Station Master to take a group photo to say you did it.

The train took us back to Chamonix for a very large beer and some R and R. The last day was Len's birthday, duly celebrated with a champagne breakfast. Bad weather kept us in the valley. You are advised not to bother with the Alpine Museum on a wet afternoon.

Saturday looked good with fresh snow fairly low down so we had a quick trip up the Midi cable car and across Helbrunner to Italy. The Matterhorn and Monte Rosa were spotted before heading back to Chamonix and so to Geneva by train.

Liz Duggan

Last Modified: 7 May, 2003