Impressions of Nepal

Arriving late evening at the airport. Fill in forms and queue at immigration. Leaving the airport, meet our trekking company rep, assailed by a crowd in the darkness. “I carry bag, sir”, “I with the Company, sir”, “English coin sir”. Eventually reach our transport and load our bags. Driving into Kathmandu (the capital) the streets are in darkness, no street lights, buildings all shuttered up, only an occasional dim light showing from the roughly built houses. Narrow streets, rubbish in open gutters, pot-holed roads, high fences round the President’s Palace, police check points. Arrive at our hotel the famous Kathmandu Guest House. Check in, more forms!

Next day in the trekking company office - more forms for our permits. Outside the deserted streets of the previous night burst into life. The shutters open to reveal crowded shops selling simply everything. People eager for trade. “You want to buy, sir? I give you good price”. “You want taxi, sir?” Crowded streets - shoppers, traders, bikes, cars, taxis, rickshaws, horns tooting, people jostling.

Nine hours on a bus (the Indian Tatra variety) and 85 miles of twisting, turning, rocking, rattling, shaking and horn blowing to reach our trekking area. At last away from the hubbub of the city to the peace of the country - no more roads - no more vehicles.

Rocky trails always up and down, up and down with the occasional level part (Nepali level that is - yet more up and down). Porters by the dozen carrying huge loads - beer, coke, eggs, rice, potatoes, pots, pans - everything that is needed in the villages and trekkers hostels in the isolated area. Friendly locals, always smiling, always helpful. Busy teahouses with primitive kitchens - earth ovens and kerosene stoves but always producing a varied menu of wholesome food. Hot solar showers, (usually cold) and interesting toilets!

Altitude sickness, short of breath, gippy turns, iodine treated water - yuk.

Isolated villages, basic schools, families eking out a living from yak or goat keeping or cropping terraces climbing up steep hillsides. Chickens, goats and buffalo grazing round rough, simple earth-floored houses - no electricity, no running water (perhaps a tap in the street) but always a friendly “Namaste” everywhere.

Birds and flowers abound, natural beauty everywhere. Waterfalls tumbling in steep sided valleys, mountains rising snow capped to the sky. Birch and rhododendron and bamboo giving way to conifers and so to snow covered rock and frozen lakes. Hot dry valleys giving way to cold high passes as we reach our highest point at 15000 feet above sea level.

Now descending to our treks end after 11 happy, exciting and tiring days and a short (thankfully) bus ride back to the mele of life that is Kathmandu.

To the airport and more forms, more queues. Sorry to leave this captivating, intriguing and beautiful country with its friendly people.

Thanks to John who organised it all and to fellow trekkers Maura, Malcolm, Penny, John, Sue, Len, Judi, Malcolm and James for their companionship.

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	Swaledale Outdoor Club

Impressions of Nepal

Alan Turner