GR20 - Corsican High Level Route

Why did I want to do it? I really don't know. I just did. Perhaps a section from the brochure might explain things. "Corsica has been referred to as the "Isle of Beauty" and the "Scented Isle" as the air is heavy with the fragrance of the maquis and the magnificent forests of pine, oak, beech and chestnut which exist on the lower mountain slopes. The sheer diversity of the landscape and the awesomely rugged terrain of pink granite mountains soaring to 2743m/9000ft, cut by deep gorges and cascading rivers, make this an exceptionally rewarding area in which to trek. The Grand Randonnee 20 (GR20) follows the watershed of the mountains spanning the island from northwest to southeast. A challenging long distance walk, alternatively called the Corsican Haute Route, it passes some of the highest peaks on the island including Mt. Cinto (2710m/8890ft) Mt. Rotondo (2621n/8600ft) Mt. d'Oro (2389m/7837ft) and Mt. Renoso (235lm/7716ft)." Anyway why does one have to have a reason? I just wanted to do it so I did.

Day 1

3:00am What the hells that noise? The alarm. Get up, Mike from the guesthouse takes me the 20 minutes to Gatwick, a 4:00 check-in, 2 hours to kill before the flight to Ajaccio. A coach to Calenzana, and a lazy afternoon getting ready, getting used to the heat, getting used to the beer, getting to know my fellow backpackers, getting to know the beer etc. etc, etc.

Day 2

We're off, carrying food and equipment for three days and two nights our packs feel awkward and heavy. Feel heavy, they ARE heavy. The first section was a steady ascent through the foothills of the northwestern corner of Haute Corse. Leaving coast and civilisation behind we headed towards the granite ridges that overlooked the Melaghia Valley. The route involved a fair bit of steep climbing and some straightforward scrambling, but the heat; I wondered what I had let my self in for. Was it the heat? Was it dehydration? Or was I just not used to the beer. Just when I thought I was going to die, the path became a beautiful contouring one that lead us to the refuge L'Ortu Piobbu, set in marvellous surroundings and our first bivvy near the refuge.

Day 3

What a night, a few same thunderstorms lighting up near by ridges, and a wing that got inside my bivvy bag and nearly had me airborne. Still I felt great and ready for what ever was to come. Its proved to be a very long, fine day's walk amongst wild rugged mountain scenery, traversing beneath soaring granite crags, before a steep descent at the end of the day to our night-stop at the refuge Carrozzu, which stood in a forest clearing. There were beautiful down valley views from the refuge balcony where we sat to make sure we were used to the beer watching a rose pink sunset. Having checked out the beer, we started on the vin de maison.

Day 4

This should have been a short but steep day, enjoyable with plenty of scrambling amid superb scenery but best laid plans etc. We followed the Spasimata Gorge across slabs to the tiny green lake at Muvrella where we stopped to regroup. Martin who was last man up arrived, when we realised that Kevin who had been in the middle of the party was not with us. We wait, but still no Kevin. Jon (the group leader), waits where we are at the lake whilst I go on up the last very steep 300m with the others in case he passed us without stopping. Across the Punta Culaghia I go, flying on over more scrambling to the Col Asco. Still no Kevin. I leave my pack and backtrack to Punta Culaghia to rejoin Jon, who by now was sure Kevin must have had an accident. Jon decides that the rest of the party should continue on to our overnight stop, and if we don't arrive by 4:00, call out the rescue. He and I retrace our steps back down to Lake Muvrella. We had been there looking around for 10 minutes when Kevin arrives, having lost the path and "done a bit of exploring". Jon now helps a very tired Kevin up the steep climb to Punta Culaghia whilst I have to run on ahead to stop the others calling the rescue. I eventually catch up with them just past where I had dumped my sack and all that is left is to make our way down a very steep descent to our accommodation, at the ski hotel at Haute Asco. In the bar that afternoon, Jon and I worked out that we had virtually done the day twice. Some short day!

Day5

For me, this was the best day's walk of the route as we traversed across the famous Cirque de La Solitude. A gradual climb took us to the Col Perdu (2183m/7160ft.) where we could look over the edge and follow the route protected by chains as it descend sharply to the bottom of the Cirque before it climbed back up to the Bocca Minuta (2218m/7275ft.). A tiring but exhilarating walk. From Bocca Minuta a long descent brought us to our bivvy site at the Bergeries Ballone (1440m/4723ft.). The bergerie offered one of the most beautiful locations enroute, and some creature comforts, like beer and wine. This off course could be consumed reposed upon the wonderful Bergerie balcony and a so of course it was.

Day 6

We began the day by following a track through pine forests, with the smell of rosemary in the air, then just as we thought that we had escaped the usual steep climb, the path turned upwards for a stiff climb to the Refuge des Mori (2000m/6560ft.). Our route then descended through a spectacular valley, crossing the river Golo several times and passing pools where the hardy types took what they claimed were refreshing swims but to me was ice cold water torture. Then it is a long winding forest path until we finally emerged onto a road leading to the ski station at Castel di Vergio and our stop in the Ski hotel. (1404m/4605ft.)

Day 7

This, the brochure said was to be the easiest day. A little bit long, but more gentle gradients. WRONG. It began on a level track through the forest and kept on and on and on with a level track through the forest.. The only thing was, we should have been climbing steeper ground with fine views of Paglia Orba and the Cinto range before a gentle descent to Lac de Nino. We stop and backtrack to find that 5k's earlier we should have turned right. The waymarks having been hidden when we passed them by a young family sitting on them. This meant that the 5 of us were now behind the main party who would be thinking we in were front of them. As they say, the chips were down so we had to crack on the speed, and eventually caught up with the main party just as they were setting off after lunch. We had a quick snack, ignored the large (freezing) plunge pools for bathing, and caught up a second time at the bergeries where you buy cheeses, made that very morning, and also the local wine. With just 2 k's to go, the second water bottle was emptied, and replaced with a litre of wine (for all of £3). We ended the day's walk on the balcony of the Manganu refuge (1601m/5251ft), guess what, drinking wine straight from the water bottles. Then it was into the bivvy bags for the first cold night.

Day 8

We were all fit by now, and the lengths of our days was increased to allow for a "rest day" to be taken later at Vizzavona. We began with the usual stiff climb to the pass of Breche de Capitello (2225m/7298ft) with its superb views followed by some spectacular ridge walking and scrambling above Lac de Espitello and Lac de Melo. The ridge took us to the routes highest pass, the Col de La Haute Route (2206m/7235ft). After descending to the Pietra Piana refuge, we carried on following a wonderfully undulating ridge before dropping down to the snugly set Onda refuge. More wine and local sausage from a handy bergerie and the windiest night of the trip where I again thought my bivvy bag was going to take off.

Day 9

In a strong cold wind, we now were faced with a long steep climb to Punta Muratellu before descending at first very steeply over granite slabs, then more gently passed the Cascade des Anglais to Vizzavona for our 2-night stay in a hotel and a rest day.

Day 10

A rest day, which is just as well as the weather has changed. The people who did not do the double to Refuge Onda have had to follow the valley route to Vizzavona due to the high winds and mountain storms. Us? We spend it pottering around the bars in Corte.

Day 11

Our longest stage. 25 km. And the weather is typical Lakeland. Strong winds, rain hail sleet and snow!! The Med in July? Luckily for once there were no steep ascents or descents, still it was very much walking to get there without any enjoyment.. Our route took us through forest to the Col de Palmente, then crossed the ridge before contouring down the far slope to the Crete de Chufindu and across rolling country to the Col de Verde (1289m/4230ft.). Here for a change, there was not much willingness to spend the night supping in the local "bar" as it was too cold. The temperature this night dropped below freezing.

Day 12

We needn't have bothered about the cold of the previous night, because the by now normal steep mornings climb soon had us warmed up and stripped off. After a steep climb out of the forest to the Col de Prati (1870m/6000ft.), we came to a high level granite strewn plateau and ridge system. (You'll only understand what I mean if you've been there.) We followed the plateau and its complex ridges all the way to our destination at the refuge d'Usciolu. This was a long, but fine day's walking with some easy scrambling and classic ridge walking to enliven our progress. The refuge is set amidst the mountains at 1750m/5741ft, but with the weather still unsettled, another cold and windy night. And yes, before you get worried for me, the refuge did sell wine by the water bottle full.

Day 13

The first section of our route resumed the ridge and constantly re-crossed it. Most of these crossings required the use of hands as well as feet to get though the breche into the strong winds. We eventually left the ridge and the winds before heading down to a beautiful wooded plateau where landscape changed yet again to pastures with sluggish rivers and delphiniums. Our target was the ruined Auberge Jacques. Here the original plan was to dump sacs and climb Mount Incudine, which was to be the furthest southerly point we reached on the GR20, but with the return of high winds and low clouds, nobody felt like doing it. Some headed straight down to Zicavo, but 7 of us did not want to leave the mountains just yet so wiled away the afternoon and what turned out to be a damp night in the ruins of what had once been the best restaurant in the area.

Day 14

All that was left for us now was the long descent to the pretty mountain village of Zicavo, where we stayed in a small hotel for our last night. Never mind, loads of bars and pizzerias and lovely forest views; a worthy place to finish the tour, to clink glasses and celebrate.

Day 15

The bus journey to Ajaccio and the return flight. I can honestly say that this is the most sustained backpacking trip I have ever done, but if you are fit, mad and like the mountains, I can highly recommend the GR20 to give you a real buzz. In case you're wondering about the constant occurrence of beer and wine each night, we were only following the brochure guide-lines which stated "Beer and wine are cheaper than the coffee on this trip", so we were just saving money. That's my excuse anyway!

Geoff Kensett

P. S. For any budding alcoholics who want to follow this advice, I did the trip with Sherpa Expeditions.

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