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South Africa - Drakensberg

October 2001

Keith, Glennis, John, Ann, and ourselves arrived in Johanesburg to be met by John and Maura, who had travelled out the previous day, and Malcolm who had arrived from Australia a couple of days earlier. After loading our luggage on the VW microbus and trailer we made the two hour drive to the Pilanesberg National Park where we spent two nights at the Manyane resort just outside the park gates.

The park was set up in 1977 and occupies an ancient volcano some 15 miles in diameter and is the home to a wide range of African wildlife. In our two days there we managed to spot elephant, giraffe, hippo, wildebeest, crocodile, hyena, several kinds of antelope and buck, numerous species of birds and a glimpse of the king of beasts - the lion.

The next two days were spent at Foothold, the Johannesburg Hiking Club cottage set in an isolated position in the bush below the Magaliesberg escarpment. Here we walked among the crags, watched the vultures soaring on thermals and clambered up the famous Foothold chain ladder. The isolated position meant we had to self-cater and in the evenings that was the ever-popular South African barbecue (known as a BRAAI).

Then a full day drive south to the northern Drakensberg mountains and the resort of Hlalanathi (pronounced sch-lal-an-a-thi), a Zulu word meaning "stay with us". Situated overlooking a bend in the Tugela river our lodge had magnificent views of peaks rising to 10,000 feet. Three days gave us time to walk and explore in the nearby Royal Natal National Park finding beautiful mountain scenery; visiting narrow gorges, cascading waterfalls and ancient bushmans paintings; while being dazzled by a wonderful array of spring flowers. On our final day there a local guide took us round the nearby Zulu village of Amazizi, visiting the primary school, craft centre, vegetable gardens and the sangoma (a kind of witch doctor). Leaving the village behind we drove further south to the central Drakensberg.

Our destination was Injasuthi, an isolated resort set deep in the mountains accessed by a long 20 mile drive along a rough single track road through Zulu homelands. Two more days of walking took us to such interestingly named places as grindstone caves and marble baths via a few wet and rocky river crossings (no bridges).

Leaving Injasuthi and returning north we visited Spionkop, a Boer War battle site where the British attempted to break the Boer siege of Ladysmith. This hilltop site was shrouded with mist much as it was on the morning of the battle over 100 years ago, and made for an eerie experience.

Our final destination was the Mount Everest resort a few miles north of Harrismith. Set in extensive lands with three large hills including one called Mount Everest this resort had its own private game park stocked with many kinds of antelope and buck. The following day we did indeed make our ascent of Mount Everest (and have the pictures to prove it). The weather however deteriorated so after a rapid descent six of us made the 50 mile trip back to Ladysmith, spending the afternoon exploring the town and the siege museum there.

On our final day, after driving to Johanesburg we had time to visit the Gold Reef City theme park on the outskirts of the town. This is set round the site of an old gold mine and the highlight of a visit is to go 600 feet down the mine to see how gold was mined. Sadly that brought our sojourn to an end and it was on to the airport and our flight back to Blighty.

Our thanks to our fellow travellers for their good company and special thanks to John & Maura for organising the trip.

Alan & Janet Turner

Last Modified: 7 May, 2003