Boots Across Scotland

Having failed to get an entry to the Great Outdoors Challenge (a Scottish coast to coast walk) earlier this year, I decided to do it alone. After much poring over maps I chose a route from Morar to Stonehaven. My support party consisted of my wife Janet in our camper van.

On 19 May, having paddled my boots in the sea, I set off from Morar along the north side of Loch Morar, through Glen Tarbet to Loch Nevis, and eastwards. There is no proper footpath here but is walkable with difficulty. I camped near Ardnamurach, which is marked on the map but turned out to be just one ruined building.

Day 2. The next 4 miles to Sourlies Bothy took 4 hours, very rough going. Then east into Glen Dessarv in the pouring rain. Remarkably the track here used to be a main route to the coast, one can only admire the old timers who used it. Strathan turned out to be a very private village, gated off, with a notice saying "Entry for cars only if authorised" another "Camping is available only at bothies" another "This is potentially dangerous mountain country. Make sure you are adequately experienced and equipped." Ho hum. Welcome to the Highlands. I found a place out of sight of the village and camped I was worried about crossing the River Kingie the next day. There are dire warnings in guide books not to cross it if swollen by rain, and it was raining I also worried as to whether I was "adequately experienced" (just joking).

Day 3. When I reached the River Kingie, it was swollen but I found a reasonable fording place and waded across with sandals on. That was a relief. Eventually reached Janet and the van at Tomdoun, she drove to a civilised camp site "You'll be looking forward to having a shower" she said, standing downwind.

Day 4. Rest day. We drove to the fleshpots of Fort William. All those lovely eating places and outdoor shops. Spent time in the Nevisport shop, which manages to be both.

Day 5. Returned to Tomdoun. Walked to Invergarry, got lost in a pine forest (just a minor blip).

Day 6. To Fort Augustus, where I was videoed by an American tourist festooned with cameras and gadgets. I also met a loud but cheerful party of ladies walking the Caledonian Canal.

Day 7. Through the Monadhliath mountains, over the Corrieyairack Pass (2542 feet) in rain. The track here used to be driveable, but hasn't been resurfaced for 270 years since General Wade built it. Stayed at Melgarve bothy, which had several rooms and a pile of equipment that someone had abandoned, with a note saying "if you want any of this help yourself'. I couldn't resist, and acquired a bivouac sheet and a pair of gaiters.

Day 8. Followed General Wades road along the Spey valley to Glentruim.

Day 9. To Aviemore on back roads. Had a quiet sit down in Kingussie cemetery to treat blisters.

Day 10. Planned day off. 'Did' Aviemore High Street - lots of cafes and touristy shops. Had a large meal in Italian restaurant attached to campsite. Foot still sore.

Day 11. Unplanned day off. Foot recovering, helped by the purchase of some super-duper boot insoles and magic blister plasters. The rest of the UK had storms and floods, we could see it snowing on the Cairngorms.

Day 12. Walked from Aviemore through the Cairngorms via the Laing Ghru (2732 feet) where there were 4 inches of snow at the top. Corrour bothy, although surrounded by magnificent scenery was small, dirty and smelly. I camped outside, and passed a cold and blowy night.

Day 13. To Braemar. Weather and temperature improved markedly. I walked through the grounds of Mar Lodge, a very grand mansion. A notice said "walkers welcome" but it felt like walking through the gardens at Buckingham Palace.

Day 14. From Braemar onwards, the Dee valley was picturesque but comparatively civilised. Walking through the grounds of Balmoral Castle (it's legal), I passed a courtyard with people sitting having tea. It might have been a cafe, it might have been a royal tea party, I resisted the temptation to barge in and order tea and cream cakes. I walked to Balater on back roads. Noticed that the chemist, the newsagent and garage all had "By Royal Appointment" signs.

Days 15,16 and 17. Aboyne, Banchory and finally Stonehaven, partly along a disused railway track. Paddled my boots in the sea, had gigantic Spanish meal.

I had spent 14 days walking, of which 3 nights were in the tent, one in a bothy, the remainder in the camper van. I averaged 13 miles a day and lost 7 pounds.

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	Swaledale Outdoor Club

Boots Across Scotland

Sid Hill