Letter From the Maldives

As I write this, the rain is battering down on the corrugated iron roofs and the wind is raging in the palm trees. Up until the last few days the weather has been unfailingly hot and sunny with blue skies, very few clouds and constant heat and humidity. Apparently the west monsoon will be starting soon with rain and wind and then in June and July it will be 'very' wet.

I came to Holhudhoo Island in Noonu Atoll about 10 days ago. Originally I was to come by speed launch (approx 5 hours) but it broke down so 2 days later I came by sea plane to a resort in the atoll to the south (40 mins) and a dhoni journey of 2 1/2 hours. I have settled in remarkably well, finding out where the different shops are and what they sell (all very similar so I tend to pick on the ones nearby or with friendly shopkeepers). As the weather begins to deteriorate and be less predictable I think food will become more limited as it is more difficult for boats to arrive or depart. At the moment it is quite easy to get white cabbage, carrots, tomatoes, cucumber, apples, oranges and bananas but this will change. Staple food is rice and I brought lentils and other beans from Male'.

I have been given a whole house to myself. This is rather embarrassing as the Indian and Sri Lankan expat teachers get a room, shower/toilet 'cubicle' and maybe a separate cooking area if they're lucky. For me it means more cleaning! The sand gets everywhere and it is with good reason that everyone takes their shoes off before entering a house (if it is tiled). I sweep the house every two days or so, probably rather slack by Maldivian standards, which are scrupulously high. I cook on a 2- ring gas burner and wash up and do clothes washing in a bowl (no sink) but I am lucky to have a fridge as food goes off so quickly here. I think VSO give the employer a list of things that should be provided and luckily a fridge is one of them. Boiling water for drinking takes up quite a time, my water supply is pumped up from a well and although it comes through taps and looks relatively clean this is deceptive and I'd rather err on the side of caution. It's hot enough already without having a fever as well.

Since I've been here I have been going into school everyday. Meynaa School has about 700 students but limited classrooms so there is a morning session (for Grades 7-10, equivalent to UK Years 8-11) and an afternoon session (G1-6, UK Y2-7 based on ages). Nearby there is also a pre-school, which I have yet to visit. I attend in the afternoon and have been going into lessons to see what goes on. Unfortunately the teachers think I'm checking up on them and it is hard to convince them that I just want to see what the children are like and what sort of things they do. Everyone is very friendly and accommodating but again, if they think I'm a supervisor, which some of them do, they would be! Teachers work very hard here (sounds familiar?!). There are lots of extra classes in the evenings (mainly 'remedial' as they are deemed) and events at weekends for extra-curricular things such as sport, Guides and Little Maids (Brownies). Teaching seems to be a way of life.

In reality, people all over the island have been great: curious and staring but ready to smile if I say Assalaam alaikum (a greeting). People are getting used to my attempts at Dhivehi and although they tend to find it very amusing they do help with new words or how to say things properly. Holhudhoo is about as small as I was led to believe - my approximate pacings have calculated no more than about 500m by 300m give or take a bit of beach. The houses are tightly packed but there still has a feeling of space and it isn't too claustrophobic. It's interesting how one's horizons shrink if necessary. Most dwellings are one storey but a few newer ones are 2 or 3 and there is a lot of new building going on. Apparently the government has given H. a small island nearby on which to expand but this will take a while, what with design, planning and building. Perhaps I will see something happen before I leave. Although trees have been felled to make way for new houses there are still many around the shore and within house compounds. I have some custard apple trees, the fruit aren't quite ripe yet. Many people protect fruit with old plastic bottles because of the marauding rats and enormous fruit bats, the latter can be seen at dusk and early evening. I have quite a few geckos in the house that squeak from time to time and attempt to keep the insect population down but there are still hordes of tiny ants. Mosquitoes aren't too much of a problem as yet.

That's it for now. The cybercafe on H is broken but this weekend I have a chance to go to Velidhoo so hope to email from there.

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Letter From the Maldives

Helen Booth