Winter Climbing on Stanage

The weather would have been ok if we had been in Scotland, however Rachel, Malcolm, Simon and I were in Derbyshire and the sub zero temperatures were more suited to snow and ice than rock climbing. The plan devised by Simon was to park at the North end of Stanage, completing four VS / HVS routes, run along to Burbage North for a route, Burbage South for another and back to the car via Higgar Tor and an ascent of The File.

The running started off slowly getting used to running with a sack and near freezing temperatures. Dropping down from the top of the crag we looked out for our first climbs on High Neb.

Why don't I ever learn? The number of times I've thrown myself on tricky routes without warming up I should have known better. The first few moves were easy, but then my route Kelly's Overhang sneaked off to the side going from slab to overhang. Despite the good holds the sub zero temperatures were taking their toll on stiff muscles and I cursed myself for being over optimistic. After attempting the moves a dozen times or so and reluctantly thinking of retreating Malcolm and Simon appeared after completing High Neb Buttress. Retreat was impossible so now committed I left the good holds, feet up high and bridged wide a rounded hold crept closer. As the footholds became worse the right foot slipping off as the left took my weight, the crux was over and a quick couple of moves brought the top within reach.

By the time I has set up the belay hoar frost was forming on my fleece jacket and hair and we were all desperate to warm up by running off to the next climb.

After struggling on Kelly's Overhang our ambitions dropped and to save us from freezing to death whilst belaying we all chose The Mississippi Buttress Direct for our second route. This was polished off more rapidly with Malcolm going speed ascent and Rachel taking a more leisurely ascent.

The chosen route for Burbage North was the steep corner of Mutiny Crack a classic jug covered route complete with hoar frost covered Holly tree to negotiate at the top. Heading along the track for Burbage South the crag disappeared into the mist and after a couple of false starts we arrived below Partheon Shot, a huge overhanging prow devoid of holds and gear placements and one of the most improbable routes I've ever seen. Fortunately or unfortunately depending on how you look at it our route was somewhat easier, Bynes Crack, starting up a short layback crack before disappearing into a recess and stepping out into an exposed final couple of moves on jugs to finish. Partheon Shot will have to wait for another day.

With daylight and strength starting to disappear we made the run / walk up to Higgar Tor and The File. Malcolm and Simon had disappeared ahead into the mist whilst Rachel and I took our time, trying to put off the thought of hand jamming, I'm not keen on hand jamming and usually try to get away with laybacking where possible. When we arrived Simon was standing at the bottom of the route waiting, to reduce the effort of hanging around to fiddle bits of gear in, he was eager to borrow some Friends. All geared up, Simon cruised the crack with Malcolm following at great pace. I went for the easy option and took the chance of a top rope. How Simon made it look so easy I don't know. In the end I went for the layback / jamming option, more strenuous and not as stylish but at least I got up.

All we had to do now was leg it back to the car before dark. The run was made easier by various discussions about pints of tea and chip butties. A great day out was had by all despite almost freezing to death whilst I struggled up Kelly's Overhang and finishing the day nowhere near a Cafe or pub. Next time we'll have to plan it to finish at Grindleford cafe.

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	Swaledale Outdoor Club

Winter Climbing on Stanage

Paul Figg