The Dark Continent

Not in the mood for the de rigour mugging in Johannesburg, I thought that the best bet on arrival was a rapid departure. Destination: south, 1st stop; Harrismith, or, more precisely the quaintly named Mt. Everest Resort, 2 - 3 hours hire car drive from the airport. It soon became clear that most of the developed climbing was within the sanctuary of a 'resort' - basically a huge tract of land designated for recreation - with no indigenous population - and no security worries. Mt Everest, unlike its better known and more commercialised namesake was such a resort 5000 hectares. Lots of animals, very few people and more to the point a plethora of superb crags. From 25m lower off's to 6 pitch bolted / traditional routes all on immaculate sun-kissed rock; what a place to warm up for the forthcoming delights that 'Seth Efrica' has to offer.

After a visit to Sentinel Peak in the scenic but disappointing Drakensberg, a drive through the Maluti Mountains of Lesotho and eventually up through the Swartberg Pass, way down South the next climbing area was arrived at. Oudtshoorn, - De Hoek Mountain Resort, has perhaps the only limestone in SA. A selection of steep high crags; good, featured rock and well-bolted lines make this another great stop off en route to the Cape. Now, heading east, numerous possibilities lie ahead. The area around Montagu has been well developed and there are a dozen or more crags within easy access of safe parking. Legoland was the most convenient and gave half a dozen 'good exercise' sports routes - (that's all they're for isn't it?). Moving on, the opportunities become more exciting. Apparently the Karbonaatjeskral area in the Hex River Mountains offers magnificent climbing in beautiful surroundings - but that will have to wait until next time. Or the very aptly named Hellfire in DuToits Valley is a must. Above here looms Du Toits Peak (1994m) - the home of some of SA's greatest mountain routes, whilst across the valley lies Wittenberg with its Dolomitic style classics such as Thunderbolt Direct - 1500 complicated feet of vertical adventure. At last Cape Town or at least Table Mountain is in sight and what a sight - the huge faces high on the mountain dominating the scene. Around Cape Town there are many very good crags - mostly developed sports climbing venues - with some perfectly good routes - but who wants to travel halfway across the universe to clip bolts - ok, so it's good exercise and most are in very pleasant locations - but not as good as those wild, wild trad. routes on The Mountain itself. Impeccable sandstone, vertical to overhanging with pitch after pitch of mind-blowing pleasure. Strenuous climbing with generally good gear and a superb look out from both Africa and Fountain ledges makes climbing here World class. There's more! - The walk up is hot, dusty and time consuming; so why not take the cable car and walk down to the routes. You could even take it back down when you are done-but you would miss out then on the walk down through the Paraklip Gorge - spectacular and well worth the time.

It's easy to get lulled into the convenience of the Cape Town area but time passes too quickly and the destination that was the greatest inspiration for the trip is a further three hours drive north. The Cedaberg Wilderness as it is called, is just that. Although it's easily accessible it has a real emptiness feel to it and no doubt the interior would be fairly remote but the main climbing areas of Wolberg Cracks and Tafelberg are both reached with either a lhr or 3hr walk respectively. Wolfberg Cracks offers some of the best rock climbing on the planet. A cross between Arapalies and the Grampians in Oz and Smith Rocks in Oregon. Throw in the quiet loneliness of Oman and the sheer pleasure of Scotland at its best and you've got some of the ingredients. Big wild routes, perfect rock, tremendous exposure and then an exciting decent - you've got the picture - and not a bolt in sight? Magic!

The walk in to Tafelberg is an expedition in itself, every now and again giving a tantalising glimpse of the mountain, its 200m SW face dominating the horizon. This cliff grit mountain has a summit plateau imported from outer space with its incredible Roirama like rock formations. The descent, there's only one, is difficult to find and is also an exciting expedition!, eventually arriving at the col between Tafelberg and the curiously named 'Spout'-a huge rock obelisk that offers its own soaring routes. The climbing? Need I say I've bored you to death with all that already; pitch after pitch of .etc.etc.etc.

So, with much regret in uncharacteristically deteriorating weather the 1400k drive back east to Jhb came round. The journey, via a wet and misty Rocklands was spectacular and mostly on fast empty roads - avoiding the tortoises being the major problem! Two days to spare so push on past Jhb to Waterval Boven - yes I know it's dubbed THE sports climbing area of SA and as an old fart that didn't excite me too much - I imagined the quintessential sports crag - lots of chalk dipping hanging around types who know all the routes but don't actually do any, lots of stretching types who only seem to do that and lots of arms folded hard route talkers who have a mate that has flashed the latest F8c - but they themselves have a poorly ear today so they can't manage any of the routes that they 'cruised' the other day. But it wasn't like that! You've heard this before...lots of very pleasant and pumpy routes - not over bolted super rock and nobody about - nobody. A choice of crags from The Restaurant to The Coven great camping and lively pub down in the town make this a worthwhile location. Couple it with a visit to the Kruger National park just down the road - they really do have big wild animals in South Africa and you will have a real good start or finish to your trip.

Asta la vista baby...I can't wait.

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	Swaledale Outdoor Club

The Dark Continent

Chris Lane