Queerboys in Queue Bar

Settle down, settle down; it's only a title, If you are interested in Sun Kissed Rock in the bastion of inefficiency and corruption - read on. It's a Caribbean island paradise, tightly tied up by Fidel and his henchmen but never-the-less there's still fun to be had, particularly on the limestone crags around Vinales; a colourful and lively village 220Km SW of Havana. This area is Cuba's main climbing location. There are two others - the El Moro sea cliffs, on the outskirts of Havana and a few crags in the small national park near Jaruco 60 Km E of Havana. Both these areas are worth a visit if in or passing the area.

The Vinales crags are very similar to those of Pra Nang and Phi Phi in Thailand, although situated inland (you can see the sea from one!) .The karst limestone is perfect; steep, overhanging well-featured and terminating in dense vegetation before which you (generally) rap. off. Holds tend to be sharp, sometimes too sharp! and the rock is rough and very abrasive. Most routes are bolted, some are a mixture of bolts and gear and there are also a number of purely trad. routes. Be aware that most of the lines have been put up on 60mtr. ropes, which can make for logistical problems on some pitches when using 50's. Also tag lines and / or trail ropes are necessary on some of the longer and more overhanging routes.

Most crags can be easily reached from Vinales, with an easy walk through the coffee and tobacco plantations. El Palanque is a further 4km out of town and La Costenera - the jewel of the area is 11km but lifts to both are fairly easy if you don't fancy the walk.

With a few exceptions American climbers on special licence to visit Cuba have put up most of the routes. There is a small indigenous climbing fraternity, based in Havana that has also put up some very impressive routes. Local shortage of equipment and import weight restrictions imposed upon the Americans has lead to a dearth of gear at rap points and lower offs. Take a load of tat and a bunch of old crabs to make life easier - the bolts are there but not the chains etc.

Camping isn't allowed anywhere but cheap accommodation in the form of 'Casa Particulares' is readily available; these will also supply basic meals (all the food is 'basic'!) if required. Government restrictions require that Gringos pay in US dollars but local produce is available extremely cheaply for pesos. Cuba isn't a climbing Mecca and probably never will be but never-the-less there are some superb lines and plenty to go at for a week or so. The good routes are REAL good and destined to become classics. The situations are very relaxed; the weather excellent and there's nobody else about (if you crave an audience, stick to Railay Beach). Add to this the laid-back life style of the gregarious locals and climbing in Cuba makes for an exciting alternative destination. Go there, NOW!

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	Swaledale Outdoor Club

Queerboys in Queue Bar

Chris Lane