North Face Col de Plan 3475m

To avoid a long drive to Chamonix to find nothing in condition and poor weather my climbing partner Malcolm had been in regular contact with the bureau de guides in Chamonix checking up on the current situation, so with a promising weather forecast gained early on Thursday, the ferry was booked for Friday night and we headed to Chamonix in search of snow and ice. Seventeen hours after leaving Thirsk we were booked into a hotel in Chamonix looking over the guidebooks to see what was going to be possible.

With cable cars only running at the weekend the route choice was limited and it would mean a long walk back to Chamonix, we decided to go for the Central Pillar Direct on the West face of the Aiguille du Plan first climbed by Brown and Patey in 1963.

With food, gas, bivvy gear, climbing kit, clothing for 3 nights out we caught the first cable car to the base of the Aiguille de Plan. With snow shoes on we set off up the slope to look for the base of the spur and the start of our route. Alter climbing the side of the spur for 250m, we started to descend again after failing to find the start of the route. With limited light left it was time for a change of plan so after falling through a small crevasse we decided to bivvy for the night and tucked into a cheese sandwich and cup of hot chocolate for dinner. Despite a small spindrift avalanche early in the night we both slept fairly well wrapped up in every piece of clothing we had ( fleece trousers, Gore Tex salopettes, thermal top, fleece jacket, down duvet jacket, 3 / 4 season sleeping ba, bivvy bag and harness so we didn't slide away from our little perch).

It takes a surprisingly long time to get away in the morning and despite waking at 6.00 we didn't get away until 8.30 after melting snow for a breakfast consisting of one cup of hot chocolate each, it wasn't a lot but adequate, as more food equals more weight equals more gas needed to cook it. The plan now was to make an ascent of the nearby North Face of the Col de Plan. To get to the base of the route involved a long 200m slog back up loose unconsolidated snow. Despite the weather forecast having been good, the conditions on route were not, but at least the slopes weren't avalanche prone. Even when we got on the route proper things didn't improve with more loose snow over rock slabs with climbing at Scottish grade 3. After another pitch we moved into the gully proper that was to be the mainstay of the climb. More unconsolidated snow followed more unconsolidated snow with the odd short section of technical mixed climbing with Malcolm leading the crux pitch Scottish 4. With 8 pitches climbed, sometimes moving together, sometimes climbing pitch by pitch tired and hungry we stopped for a rest on a shoulder on the ridge. The intention was to rest, eat, drink and carry on by torchlight to a bivvy at the Col but as virtually all we had eaten was a couple of muesli bars and one litre of water between us, the plan soon changed to bivvying where we were. This time we had a real treat three packets of noodles and hot chocolate for dinner. After melting water for the next days drinks we were asleep by 8.00 only to be woken at 10.30 by light snow showers. With snow slopes above this was a major worry; if the snow continued for too long it could load the slope above sufficiently to avalanche. It was decided to check the weather again in an hour, luckily the showers stopped shortly as both of us failed to wake to check the snowfall. This time we both slept poorly, Malcolm due to a poor back and me due to cold feet.

We woke to what could have been a real disaster for us both, somehow we had lost the control key to the stove and with potentially 2 more days on the hill, dehydration could have had dire consequences. Miraculously after five minutes digging in the snow Malcolm found the key. Another three pitches of loose snow and two short patches of black ice covered by snow brought us to the top of the climb and the warmth of the sun that had not penetrated onto the North side of the cliff. The pain of freezing hands, exhausted legs was forgotten immediately as stunning views of the mountain range greeted us with not a cloud in the sky and not a single person elsewhere in the mountains.

Although at the top of our route, we still had a long descent ahead across crevassed glaciers. Early on in the descent we were forced to make an abseil down steep ground only just managing to cross a series of crevasses. thank god for 6Om ropes. Then came the first of our pieces of luck, whilst tryng to negotiate a maze of crevasses we came across a series of animal footprints in the snow. Using these as a guide we managed to successfully find a way through the maze towards the Requin hut, here we had another piece of luck, we were expecting another cold night out but part of the hut had been left open for use by climbers in the winter. This meant we had comfortable bunk beds, blankets and a gas stove at our disposal. What luxury after 2 cold nights in bivvy bags.

The descent from the hut proved far more interesting than had been expected. Whilst abseiling down a ladder the map case came open dropping the map, 2 credit cards and 450 francs distances of up to 150m down the slope. Remarkably all were retrieved much to our relief. Back on the glacier it still wasn't all over, with snow shoes back we worked our way down the glacier. Several times we were forced to retrace our steps when we took the wrong way through the maze of crevasses. Once again the trail of animal footprints came to our aid and following these we managed to negotiate our way down to Montenvers and on to Chamonix for beer, medals, sleep and a good feed.

Many thanks to Altberg of Richmond and Allcord, importers / distributors of Camp climbing kit for their support and assistance supplying equipment on this trip and the forthcoming expedition to establish a new route on Mount Hunter, Alaska during June.

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	Swaledale Outdoor Club

North Face Col de Plan 3475m

Paul Figg