Swaledale Outdoor Club Logo

Search this site powered by FreeFind

 

> Home > Newsletter > Climbing > Mountains of Mourne

Mountains of Mourne

After frantic last minute packing (as usual!) Neil arrived - 10 minutes early and we were off to pick up Gary and Lindsay. Already warned about Neil's tape collection, Lindsay and Gary came well stocked with various CD's (Forgot mine - no surprise there!!), but was pleasantly surprised by their choices.

Arriving at the Ferry we were all ready for a drop or two of the black stuff, well 3 of us were - sorry Neil but someone has to drive!!

Arriving in Ireland, a short one hour drive saw us pulling into the Bothy driveway. After unpacking we settled into our new home for the next three nights. First impressions were very favourable after a roaring fire, a half bottle of brandy and a full bottle of whiskey, we were soon all in the party mood.

We chatted into the early hours, first losing Neil (hardly surprising due to all the driving - thanks Neil) then Gary and, eventually me and Lindsay, all in anticipation of what we hoped would be a great weekend.

After getting up, some of us a bit the worse for wear we set off. Three quarters of an hour walk saw us arriving at the crag, all being of similar grade climbers, we set off on our pre-planned routes which, in our case (me and Lindsay) was a 4a severe two star, Neil and Gary right next door tackled an HS 4b.

Setting off, the first thing I noticed was the incredible grip, and the confidence this gave. I knew then - this weekend was going to be a sheer pleasure, and it was. The overall description of that first climb, was very good grip, rounded holds and not much gear, overall excellent climbing. This was to mirror itself over the whole weekend.

We moved on to the HS, Gary and Neil had completed, and were suitably impressed. Two excellent climbs, a sun drenched walk back to the car - a day to remember, then a joint decision found us all in Newcastle for some eagerly awaited food. Suitably refreshed, and very full, we arrived back at the Bothy only to find an abandoned car - and after a rather quick phone call to the Police - it was off to bed.

Sunday found us off to Berner Slabs, and on the walk we bumped into no less than Mr Gibson - the man who put the first ascent up of the climb we were about to do! (small world isn't it?).

Twenty minutes later I was tooled up and ready to go. I set off on another S4a. lovely climbing found me at the crux which I climbed thanks to the No. 11 Hex I borrowed from Neil - (Cheers Neil). Lindsay however found it rather more difficult, but thanks to a "Jim Dale Special" she scaled the right hand side of the crack 6a at least! Well done!!

As time crept on, myself and Neil decided on one last route, as Gary and Lindsay looked on. A VS 4b, 4b, 4a was scaled in rapid time. More food in Newcastle saw us back to the Bothy about 11ish - with a bottle of whiskey in tow. Four hours saw off the aforesaid whiskey and the remains of the bottle of brandy (thirsty work this climbing lark!!) so off to bed after another fabulous day.

Monday saw a late start which only allowed for an hour on the crag, so ropes and gear were abandoned for rock boots only, we arrived as the sun was beating down - perfect. The friction on the rock giving us loads of confidence, a VS 4c, Jump route was undertaken by myself and Neil, excellent climb, Neil then realised why it was called Jump route - after a brave attempt!

Sadly, a ferry awaits, the end of a most memorable long weekend which I can wholeheartedly recommend to any walker or climber. The weekend was made all the more memorable, because of the wonderful company. Thanks to Neil, Gary and Lindsay and a very special thanks to Fred!!

P. Taylor