Khan Tengri - 6995m (22949ft)

Having kayaked the Sun Kosi river and run the Everest Marathon in Nepal it was about time I opted for a climbing trip and decided on a change from Nepal and chose to climb Khan Tengri in Kazakstan.

Khan Tengri is located in the Tien Shan mountain range in Kazakstan, previously recorded at 7010 m. it is now officially recognised as being 6995 m. just short of that magic 7000 m. mark. Kazakstan is now one of the 15 republics of the old USSR it is now the ninth largest country in the world bordered by Russia on the North and China on the East.

Khan Tengri was first climbed in 1931 by a Soviet team with attention from outsiders only starting in the 90’s. It’s most beautiful view is regarded as being from the South with it’s symmetrical pyramid shape. The most impressive view however is from the North with its North face rising two miles almost vertically from the North Inylchek glacier. This difficult and dangerous face has around 10 routes only ever climbed by the very best Russians.

The expedition, organised by the Sheffield based Himalayan Kingdoms contained 13 members from various backgrounds and countries all brought together with the aim of climbing Khan Tengri. On the 20th July we all met at Heathrow with some familiar faces that I had met in North Wales on an earlier weekend arranged by H.K. After a 10 hour flight with a change at Vienna we arrived in Almaty 2800 ft, at midnight before transferring to the Otrar Hotel and it’s bar where the local girls out numbered the guests and far more than beer was available. After a couple of hours sleep, (some didn’t even bother with that) and breakfast we headed off on a five hour bus ride to Karkara 7220 ft. It was from here that we were to take a 45 minute helicopter flight to base camp on an ex Burundi Air, Russian Mi-17.

The camp was run by Khan Tengri Mountain Services who would also be providing the facilities at Base Camp on the North Inylchek glacier. It was here that we found out that 3 climbers had been avalanched only a week earlier killing one when he was swept into a crevasse below Camp 1 and badly injuring his 2 companions. Also at the camp were a group of Japanese women who looked as though they were there for a leisurely trekking holiday but took a trip up a nearby peak to 11800 ft to help with the acclimatisation. From the top of this peak we eventually caught site of Khan Tengri, we had all been looking far too low down in the horizon whilst it towered above the clouds in the far distance.

The following day we took a superb flight to the North Inylchek glacier and base camp at 13,000 ft. below the massive 10 000 ft. North face of the mountain. This was to be our home for the next three weeks whilst we tried to climb the west ridge.

Base Camp was a permanent feature during the summer months with a huge mess tent, 30 or so tents for climbers pitched on wooden pallets balanced on constantly shifting rubble and a tent for washing with an almost constant supply of hot water. Until last year Base Camp even had a sauna until if fell down a crevasse. It was all far more civilised than I could have ever expected. The food provided by the Base camp staff was excellent and even catered for us vegetarians, regular supplies of fruit and fresh veg. were brought in by helicopter along with beer, Kazakstan wineand vodka.

The plan was to place three camps progressively higher up the mountain, acclimatising during the process, allowing our bodies to adjust to the lack of oxygen at high altitudes prior to an attempt on the summit.

Camp 1 was located across the glacier at around 4400 m. on a shoulder of the ridge above easy angled snow slopes with only one short steep section of 50 m. at about 70 degrees. Initially this easy ground proved hard work but as we got used to the lack of oxygen and fitness improved the trip to camp one became easier and easier. The first trip took around 2:20 but after acclimatising took around 1:50.

During one night at camp 1 a heavy snow fall covered the tents and almost every one spent the entire night gasping for oxygen and during one short spell of sleep I dreamt that I was drowning and was actually not far from it through lack of oxygen.

The climb up to Camp two at 5500 m. offered superb views of the summit ridge that we would be tackling later. This day was far harder than Base camp to Camp 1 and involved ascending fixed ropes up the 40 - 50 degree ice slopes with occasional steep rock steps. The quality of these ropes was terrible in places and looked more like a washing line than a climbing rope with the ends of the rope sticking out from the snow with no idea what was actually holding them in place. At times the ropes were so badly frozen up that the jumars didn’t grip the ropes at all and their only use was that if you did fall you may go a long way but at least you would be attached to the rope. I wasn’t expecting to be doing quite so much jumarring on the climb but the quality of the rock was very poor and as with a lot of Himalayan mountains this sort of ascent is considered the normal style.

Camp three was also visible on a Col at 5900 m. this meant a climb over Chapyev North only to lose height dropping to camp three prior to climbing back up again, a depressing thought as every metre of height was hard work and we would have to climb back over Chapyev again on the descent after attempting the summit. The climb to Camp three was one of the more dangerous sections of the climb as large quantities of friable rock were held in place by ice that was gradually melting as the sun came up. The climb to camp three was similar to the climb to camp two with snow slopes and the odd steep rock step before a long snow slope to the summit of Chapyev North. On the top we collected a supply of food and gas left on an acclimatisation climb. From here it was a descent of 400 m. to Camp three. Only 6 clients including myself and our 2 guides Matt and Steve made it as far as camp three due to injuries and illness ranging from groin strains, crampon wounds and strained backs.

Once at Camp three preparations were made for the summit attempt with the slower group of four plus Steve setting off at 5:00 to make the most of the available daylight on what was to be a long day. When we set off at 7:15 the temperature was around minus 10 to 15 degrees and close to - 40 with the wind chill. Even wearing virtually everything available I was still bitterly cold with my feet feeling like blocks of ice. Despite the temperature rising during the day, as you gain altitude the winds pick up, you become more tired so it becomes harder to keep warm. Early on we passed three of the first group retreating back to camp three, whilst the expedition leader, Steve continued up on his own. Gavin, one of our group of four soon turned back after feeling unwell leaving only four of us.

The summit ridge was never too steep or involved hard climbing but continued on and on with the summit well out of view. Matt, our other guide and Adam gradually crept away from me at a pace I wasn’t prepared to go at , so I settled for being a tortoise for the day with the aim of going slow and steady. I regularly had to remind myself to keep enough strength in reserve for the descent back to Camp 3.

At around 2 o’clock I passed Steve descending from the summit saying that I was only an hour from the top, after climbing for so long I wasn’t sure whether this was good news or not but, only the summit snow slope remained but at this altitude the 200 m. height gain to the summit took well over an hour.

I can’ t remember spending long on the top, just a quick couple of photos and down to join Adam and Matt who were sheltering from the winds below the summit. The descent to Camp 3 seemed to take forever absailing down rope after rope, occasionally resting on ledges to try and give the legs a rest. I arrived at camp just before dark with Matt arriving 1 1/2 hours later with Adam who had been virtually carried back down by some of our Russian porters who became concerned for his safety after taking too much out of himself on the ascent.

The following day the descent from camp three started with a climb of 400 m. over Chapyev North. This was a real struggle after the climb from the previous day. Adam and Dave looked in a poor state and were almost being dragged along on the rope. Initially we had planned to descend to Camp 2 but no one could face another night on the mountain, so after another long day of absailing (almost 2000 m.) everyone reached the comfort of base camp to celebrate our success on beer and vodka.

Prior to our ascents only one ascent had been made of the mountain from the North compared to the many ascents from the easier south side. Although we had been very lucky with the weather with a minimum of time lost, though the good warm weather had increased the avalanche risk considerably with some days almost constantly rumbling with avalanches.

Despite only four of the group reaching the summit the team all had a great time, on and off the mountain, with some promising to return for another go in a couple of years. I‘ve already started thinking about my next trip with the possibility of returning to the Tien Shan to climb Peak Pobeda.

Many thanks to Swaledale Outdoor Club and Altberg for their continued support and assistance with my trips away.

Khan Tengri - 6995m (22949ft)

Paul Figg