Just De'sert or Just Deser't

I've been quite a few times now and I'll be back again before long. Now then, when I enthuse about the place the initial reaction is something like "nah it's all flat desert with camels and rag heads lurking about - no climbing there gadgie." Or more usually, typifying the eloquence, the flat is replaced by another word beginning with the same letter having a completely different meaning but none the less being equally emphatic. Yes, you know better; the would be geo-know-alls are wrong; all you have to so is look at a map to check it out. And there they are: the mountain ranges on the South East tip of the Arabian Peninsular in that demi-paradise; The Sultanate of Oman. O.K between here and the Al Hijaz ranges in Western Saudi it is mostly desert. Thousands of square miles of the stuff; The Empty Quarter taking up a lot of land in between. A bit like all the uninteresting bits between say Darlington climbing Wall and Billingham climbing wall. Now you get the picture don't you! Both good workout areas but with nothing of any consequence in the middle. Now I know what you're thinking; but read on as this is but a mere sidetrack.

Let me explain just where the climbing is. Well to confuse the issue a great deal of the climbing is accessed from the Emirate of Ras al Khaima (UAE) and is in the Musandam Peninsular. This is Omani Territory and borders have to be crossed from the U.A.E to access it. Although as it is detached from Oman itself (separated by a bite of the U.A.E) no visas are required to enter, just a friendly bribe/hello to the policeman. This is an area of arid yet beautiful mountains separated by huge canyons (wadis) with tremendous rock climbing on soaring limestone cliffs up to 1000 metres in height. Most routes are very easily accessed by vehicle requiring only a short walk to the bottom of the crag. There are now perhaps 500 routes in the area all traditional and very many of them worthy of a three star accolade. There are only a handful of climbers in the U.A.E. and it benefits from only a few climbing visitors. Most of the major and more accessible lines have now been done but there is still a vast amount of rock for new routing and many routes still await a 2nd accent. Needless to say it's hot here - real hot - and the best time to visit is between November and March. A daytime temperature of 45C is not uncommon in April whilst the cooler months tend to hover around 30C. It's a dry heat not too uncomfortable and in the twists and turns of the wadis there is always somewhere to climb out of the sun. Friends out there have now brought out the new guidebook - which hopefully should be in the shops this Winter:- `U.A.E. Climbs` by Alan Stark.

And now we travel South into Oman proper and the paradise that I spoke about earlier. Most of the climbing here is in an area S.W. of Muscat; in the Jabal Akhden range although to the East and West are the Hajar ranges both with exciting lonely mountains in majestic settings.

These limestone mountains are dissected by wadis, down many of which gush crystal clear waters from seepage following the winter monsoons. The surroundings are hot and dry but within the canyons lush vegetation in places offers a break in the landscape and welcome shade. Pools and waterfalls await after each route and needless to say, the climbing is superb, mostly on unbelievably sharp limestone, steep and solid. Most canyon routes are very easily accessible by vehicles - (car hire in Muscat). Camping is available virtually anywhere, locals are helpful and friendly. Be sure to get a hire car with a/c. I've spent more than one occasion sleeping in the car with the a/c on to keep comfortable in the heat of the night as sometimes the ground is just too hot for camping.

The 'Jewel in the crown' is the Jabal Akhdar range is undoubtedly Jebel Misht (2025 metres). A huge pyramid of rock with now quite a few routes on the South and South East faces. The classic here is the 1993 French route; 1500 metres with 750m of vertical climbing, long, serious and with the most obvious of logistical problems - carrying sufficient water not only for the climb but for the descent, itself long and complicated - perhaps in darkness and leaving you miles away from your starting point.

Pick up a copy of Alec MacDonald's `Rock Climbing in Oman`. Further details and topos are available for newer routes.

These destinations offer climbing adventures in an exotic location with a 99 per cent guarantee that you will have the crag/wadi/mountain range to yourself.

There is also tremendous walking available on both the Musandam Peninsula and in Oman proper. Multi day trips through wild wadi systems and over mountain tops are a real adventure with the chance of stopping off for a night with the Bedouin somewhere along the route. And don't forget the coast is not far away - silver sand and sparkling sea - although the temperature of a hot bath at times it offers relief from the countries often 50C daytime temperature. Then there are the sea cliffs - but that's another article.

To sum up then: U.A.E. (access to Oman territory) fly to Dubai, hire a car, camp f.o.c. in Wadis: provisions readily available in Ras Al Khaima.

Oman: fly into Muscat or cheaper, Dubai and Bus to Muscat (cheap and very interesting). Hire a car - camp f.o.c. in wadis/with Bedouin. Provisions readily available. Emptiness, Adventure, Excitement, Paradise. It's not Skugdale or 'the Wall' I know; but it's got to be the next best thing.

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Just De'sert or Just Deser't

Chris Lane