 |
||
|
Swaledale Outdoor Club |
|
||
|
Swaledale Outdoor Club |
| > Home > Newsletter > Climbing > Easter Meet 2001 |
Easter Meet 2001As with all club activities being restricted by the FMD, the climbing scene from a club perspective didn't get off to a good start this season - the traditional Scugdale "starter" couldn't take place and no local crags were open. Things were looking grim in March for the upcoming Easter Meet in Pembrokeshire but a few crags were being opened up, mainly courtesy of the BMC's website information. Part of Pembrokeshire was opened up but then rapidly closed a week before Easter due to stray sheep… Plan B was therefore implemented - the Peak! Several crags had being open throughout March and more were being made accessible by the National Park. A quick head count on the Wednesday night found 5 rock beer athletes desperate for some real action: myself, Robin Davies (a friend from Edinburgh), Andy Saxby, Pete Taylor and Richard "The Youth" Sample. A big obstacle was always going to be cheap accommodation but luck found us, via the Internet, planning to stay in a private bunkhouse in Birchover near Matlock. An early Good Friday start found us driving in beautiful bright weather down to Black Rocks, just south west of Matlock. None of us had ever climbed here and the general consensus was that this was a very different grit to Froggatt or Stanage - very, very bold! A good day was had by all, with routes such as Lone Tree Grove (VS 4c), Sand Buttress (HVS 4c) and Sand Gully Right-hand (HVD) being done by the party. Two notable ascents were my "90% aid-climbed using Friends" attempt at Stonnis Crack (S 4a) and The Youth's first ever lead on rock of Lone Tree Gully (HVD). I'm now down for a trip to Yosemite and The Youth for a shot at Parthian Shot. After bit of a late night in the local pub..., we hoped to go to Willersley but the wet conditions convinced us to head to the Foundry Indoor Wall at Sheffield instead. This proved to be a hard affair after the rigours of the previous day so suitable evening entertainment and a meal, with ourselves appropriately attired in our climbing clothes, was found in the local cinema, watching 'Men of Honour'. It should be noted at this point that our section leader has finally succumbed to the technical temptations of the modern world and finally acquired a mobile phone. As probably most of the people with him were the only ones who knew the number, he didn't quite remember to switch off said phone. Oops, just at the crucial moment, disaster struck. The phone rang, Team SOC cringed and Andy spent about 30 seconds searching the many pockets of his jacket for the phone. Safe in the knowledge that it was now switched off, we relaxed again only to hear the distinct 'bleep, bleep' of a voicemail message having being deposited… A rather late start on Easter Sunday saw limited action at Wildcat. Pete had to return home on the Saturday for work reasons so myself & Robin did Cat's Eye (S 4a,-) while Andy & The Youth did Lynx (HS 4b, 4a). Heavy rain soon put an end to our limestone adventure but not before we had met up with the Barnsley branch of the Climber Club (Keith, Paul, Clive & Jago). After a mandatory stop in a Matlock Baths cafe, we then stayed the night at the Bob Downes Hut below Froggatt Edge. The following morning saw us head for the grit of Millstone Edge. Routes done at Millstone included Covent Garden (VS 4b, 4b) by Andy and Richard and Brixton Road (HD) and Close Shave (S 4a) by myself and Robin, with Robin also doing his first ever lead on Brixton Road. A notable achievement was Paul Figg's ascent of Regent Street (E2 5c), with Paul and Rachel having come down to the Peak the previous day. The FMD could have totally knocked the weekend apart but Peak District did have the most to offer for the long weekend. Hopefully things will have improved by the time you read this. Neil 'Bomber' Harold |