Sea Kayaking - the Return

After missing out on an earlier trip I was determined that four days in Scotland island hopping was too good to miss as a return to sea kayaking after a break of nearly three years.

Thursday 5th July saw the car headed for Mallaig with JP, RW and myself winding down to relaxation mode in preparation for the days ahead.

Friday 6th - Excellent breakfasts in the seamens mission Mallaig and we made our way to Rhu a small hamlet southwest of Arisaig where the boats were packed and we set out for the island of Eigg, a two hour crossing of approximately 12k where we were greeted by a flat sandy beach ideal for the statutory brew and food. This was followed by a short walk to the local post office/shop and visitor amenities before back to the boats and on our way to the set off point to cross the Sound of Eigg to Muck.

As we left the southern tip of Eigg the wind direction and the tide began to conspire against us and create a sea that had no pattern to it as the water was squeezed between the islands and the wind swept straight in from the outer western isles. A silence descended on the trio as we fought to hold our compass bearing, deal with the wind, balance in the chopping sea and hold relative position so as not to become split up. The occasional shout of the words "OK" and "Yes" was our total vocabulary for a good hour.

The nearer we got to Muck the calmer things became and conversation returned centring upon where the camp would likely be that evening. Much map scouring had not produced anything when we rounded a headland and a small shelving beach beckoned some tiring paddlers. The decision to camp there had nothing to do with the full scale Wigwam that happened to be already there nor the mini marquee, it was a good site. Investigations on landing found the wigwam full of large group camping equipment and the marquee empty except for 3 wooden high backed stools carved out of solid tree trunk ??. Obviously a large group was to return that evening but tracker JP observed that grass was not trodden. Anyway so as not to be evicted later we opted to pitch our own tents and settled down.

Now Muck is not an island for the gregarious, a single "road" crosses the island and is the main highway for the 30 people who live there, it may be walked easily in under the hour that is if you don't get run over by an untaxed, untested, no lights, broken windscreened, bald tyred and slow moving Landrover.

Back in camp we debated the weather forecast for the next day and determined to set off early if conditions were favourable.

4am Saturday 7th and it was all go as we broke camp packed boats and went for the island of Rhum at first light. (On the water on 4.30am, eat your hearts out those who missed it). Due North into the waves and breeze for 2hrs and visited by porpoises saw us in the lee of Rhum sitting on the rock enjoying breakfast in the sun and no wind. Water replenished from the lake stream and we were off again but not before the first, and only, fish had been caught and released. This part of the trip was perfect, the sea swell was slight the sun beat down and the scenery and views stunning from our perspective.

Up the western side of Rhum we cruised before making the short hop to Canna and Sanday just to see what was there before returning to Rhum and camping up for the night. It was here that we were visited by a group of sea kayakers from Glasgow who were circumnavigating Rhum in a day.

Much ale was consumed at this camp following a l4hr paddling day, this was purely for medicinal purposes to ease the aching muscles.

Sunday saw a gentler start to the day and relaxed paddling to Loch Scresort where the sea otter was spotted just before lunch and a wander to Kinloss Castle. Now on the return leg we continued on across the sound of Rhum where my sunglasses decide to jump overboard and despite their floatation device vanished from sight, onwards down the eastern side of Eigg and on a sea that was flat calm we were rewarded by the dolphin cruising past with its distinctive blow on surfacing.

The conditions being so perfect it was decided to make the final crossing on Sunday evening instead of the Monday morning and after a quick brew or in my case the cooked dinner, fruit, biscuits and tea, we were away from Eigg for the last time and due for the mainland. This last crossing was uneventful with the odd white top and a helping 2/3ft swell along with a following wind.

A quick change gear and boats loaded and the pub was the next call, thanks Richard for an illuminating insight into the Scottish drinking habits.

Back along the road to our original overnight stop, finish the remaining beers and the next day the long drive home.

My thanks go to Johnny for working out the route and learning how to master the GPS whilst on the waves, to Richard for his first use of his marine radio for weather reports and the griddle he produced on a beach in the middle of nowhere. Despite the aches and pains it was a great return to sea paddling.

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	Swaledale Outdoor Club

Sea Kayaking - the Return

Clive Hall