Knoydart

The fisherman's mission for breakfast seemed an excellent idea as we emerged from our various overnight stops just outside Malaig. People turned up in dribs and drabs (or should that be dips and drabs?) but there were some missing. We wondered if people (Paul) had been listening to the weather forecast which went something like "winds force 4 increasing to 6 ....... gusting....... heavy showers....... cyclonic.....".

Still, canoeists have never been put off by a bit of weather so off we went to pack our boats. We were a mixed bunch. Ability ranged from experienced to competent to first time in a canoe and what do you do with this stick thing?

The two novices were put in the front of the doubles and chauffeured by Ellie and Neil. If it hadn't been so windy it would have been quite an entertainment watching as the pairs tried to paddle in rhythm, they just about managed it by the end of the fourth day!

It was head down as we rounded the headland and made our way down Loch Nevis and it continued to be head down until our afternoon tea stop. We then managed to cover as much distance in the last two hours as we had in the first four. The wind had dropped and now came from behind us.

A campsite was chosen from among the bracken and umpteen tents sprung up to the sound of boiling kettles and bubbling suppers. There was a distinct lack of firewood so we all chose a suitable pebble to stand around and drink our beers. The ambience was spoilt by rain, and when it wasn't raining by swarms of midges. However, we were royally entertained by a pair of otters who were rolling and porpoising just by the shore edge.

It poured with rain overnight and the stream dividing our campsite was now a pretty fast flowing river which provided its own entertainment as people crossed and re-crossed to get to breakfast and back.

It had been our intention, although never really mine, to go Monroe bashing today but luckily low cloud prevented even the most foolhardy from setting out on such a quest. We split into several groups and each did our own thing. The heavy rain in the night made an already boggy place even boggier and several of the walkers got very wet - oh dear! The least energetic amongst us paddled about 3 km and rested up in a bothy to be eaten alive by - you guessed it - yet more midges but were also treated to a porpoise display. The middling party, which obviously included me, went for a short paddle to do an easier walk on a nice firm and bog free path. We even got blasted by some sunshine and had a well deserved ice cream at the teashop - honestly.

We were the last back to the campsite and before I had had a chance to finish my pudding the heavens opened. As my custard quickly became diluted we all took to our beds and tents were firmly zipped by 8.30pm. And yes, it rained all night.

The next morning it was almost dry, just a light drizzle which did its best (but failed) to keep the midges away. We packed up and were on the water for 11.30 - well, we were on holiday! A short hours paddle and it was time to stop for lunch in the sunshine. A lot of stripping off occurred as we tried to acclimatise ourselves to this novel weather change.

We then headed off for Inverie and were treated to another sighting of otters on the way. This is the home of the remotest pub in Britain and was the first time we'd had to talk to each other without the interruptions of rain or midges. A particularly good evening was had by all. Yarns were spun and re spun, drinks were drunk, plans made, more drinks drunk, hilarity increasing and yet more drinks drunk.

Breakfast was a rather subdued occasion the next day, despite the sunshine and lack of midges due to a healthy wind.

Off we set on our final leg of the trip back to Malaig in time for lunch at the fishermen's mission - excellent.

Lessons learnt:-

Never trust a weather report, it wasn't that bad really.

Don't forget your midge repellent.

Always check your tent for poles and pegs before you try to put it up.

Always pack your wellies.

Never underestimate people's desire to enjoy life despite everything - well done Pete and Don!

Never believe Kath when she says she doesn't like it when it's choppy.

A really good trip, thank you Richard, I should get out more often.

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