Around Taransay in an Afternoon

After leaving the ferry at 8.OOam on Monday morning seven of us, being Pete and Wendy, Nick and Cath, Clare, Westy and myself drove over to find our intended campsite for the next few days.

The campsite lay approximately ten miles almost due west of Tarbert at a place called Seilibost. After setting up the tents and exploring our free campsite that included toilets and fresh running water we decided to think about more important things - some paddling. The weather was sunny and dry but windy which was probably blowing about a force 4 to 5. We managed to get the weather forecast at 9.5Oam from the Stornaway Coast guard over the VHF radio, he forecast SW's force 4 - 5 reducing to 3 - 4 late afternoon, visibility good and increasing again to 5 - 6 from midnight onwards as a new Atlantic low approached. The forecast seemed quite promising and after consulting the map we packed the sea kayaks with flares, repair kits, food and tea brewing equipment and was on the water for 100pm.

We were camped approximately four miles from the island of Taransay, which has been frequently in the media this year for hosting the BBC's Castaway 2000 project. Our plan was to basically circumnavigate the island, which was about thirteen miles, and be back at the campsite for around 700pm.

As we launched into the water the wind was behind us, blowing from the Southeast. The first part of the journey did not really involve much effort. The five of us which included Pete, Nick, Westy, Clare and myself basically aimed at the tip of the island and ran down with the wind to the most northerly part called Rubha nan Totag. In just over an hour we had covered about 8 km and were getting some welcome shelter from the prevailing wind. We spent about 15 minutes exploring the various little skerries and coves, as we started to paddle south we came across a cave where a huge bellowing sound of air was echoing out of it. On closer inspection the cave went back about 18 feet. Right at the end there was a hole about a foot in diameter, which ran horizontally into the back of the cave. This was at sea level and as the swell rushed into the back of the cave it ran down the hole and so compressing the air which had to escape back through the entrance of the hole. This created quite a powerful spray of water snorting into the back of the cave. It was very much like a horizontal geyser. As we left the cave we could hear it roaring, perhaps warning us of what was to come.

We gradually paddled our way up the west side of the island dodging from cove to cove, trying to get some shelter from the higher ground on the island. We were heading for a sandy bay called Traigh a' Sair which was about 4km from Rubha nan Totag. After about 2 km we lost the shelter from the island and had to paddle into a head wind. It was at this point that I started to have increasing problems with my kayak.

The kayak, which I paddle, is quite large and is really designed as a exhibition kayak and not a day boat. My problem was that it was too light. In the past I have nearly always had it filled up with enough gear for a long weekend or a weeks paddling. This was the first time I have ever paddled it in such windy conditions with no weight in it. The kayak was so light and high in the water, every gust of wind just caught the bow and blew it off to the left. It was an absolute nightmare.

We all eventually arrived at Traigh a' Sair and had a long awaited brew and some thing to eat. After about half an hour we set of again on the second half of the trip.

We again had sheltered waters for the next 3km until we approached the point of Magasgeir. At this point a slow gradual swell started to motion us up and down and as we paddled nearer it started to get rougher until we were exposed to the full force of the wind and Atlantic swell. As we looked down the next 2 to 3 km of coastline it was more like a raging river. Waves were coming in from a southeasterly swell and crashing into the cliff faces. They then rebounded of the cliff and returned back out to sea, this resulted in waves meeting each other that created some very confused water. There were waves going in every direction. Whilst paddling through it all, some waves seem to tower above you and then in a second they were gone. Some waves met either side of the kayak and engulfed the whole boat and paddler, whilst some came ploughing directly under the bow causing it to crash down into the trough of the wave with a smack.

It took us well over an hour to paddle about 2.5 km. We were all wet through, cold and getting very tired. We decided to have a quick brew and found a small sheltered bay called Rubha na Moine. After something to eat and drink the next part of the trip was about a 5km crossing back to the mainland which was the shortest route back.

It was now late afternoon and we decided that the weather forecast we had got must be slightly out, the wind was blowing at least a force 4 or 5 with gusts up to 6, it was pouring with rain and visibility was poor. Pete set the GPS for our final destination on the main land and all five of us return to our kayaks for the final leg of our journey. For this part of the trip we had a beam sea, which meant the waves and wind were running parallel with the sides of the kayaks. I was once again struggling with my boat. The wind was basically catching the side of my boat and just blowing me side ways. I was trying desperately to stay within the group but when I looked up the others were some distance away. No way could I make it back to them.

I was on my own, I could not see the main land. The only bit of land I could see was Taransay. I had no control over my boat, every gust of wind, seemed to do exactly what it pleased with me, the whole situation seemed impossible. One minute everyone was there the next they were in the distance among the many contours of the waves. I felt some apprehension wondering where I was. I new the only thing I could do was to stay calm and concentrate on landing and get some weight in my kayak. I tried to reassess the situation and did my best to consult my map among the heavy swell and frequent gusts. It was obvious that I was being swept towards Taransay and I could just to say make out a beach behind me which must have been Loch na Uidhe. So I decided I must be about 1 km from Rubha nan Sgarbh, which was a point just up the coast, the nearest place to land was the beach where the Castaway 2000 settlement was.

By this time I had drifted almost 3km from the point of leaving the others. I tried to focus on my destination thinking about a hot cup of tea, chocolate and biscuits. Every time I pulled on a stroke it seemed that the elements were fighting against me.

I eventually pulled in between two skerries and round into sheltered waters of Sgeir a' Bhuallt I was absolutely knackered, soaked from head to toe, still cold and one of my shoulders ached.

I walked up the beach looking for something to line my canoe with. After about a quarter of a mile I found myself in the settlement. As I looked round the whole place looked deserted there was no sign of a single human being anywhere. I did think about knocking on a door and try to scrounge a cup of tea and a warm up but thought better of it. The last thing I wanted was media attention and being filmed by the BBC, or being put on the front page of some tabloid paper with the head lines Sea Kayaker Rescued by the BBC's Castaway 2000. I turned back for the beach and looked back once again through the rain at the settlement, still there was no sign of life.

On the way back to the beach I picked up a couple of old plastic bags and packed them with sand to help cushion the rocks. I laid one in the front hatch and the other in rear hatch and then proceeded to find some rocks to ballast my boat. As I sat drinking a luke warm cup of tea I started to feel a bit despondent - however did I get myself into this situation, - were the others alright? After eating a cheesy dunking thing, chocolate, biscuits and drinking about a pint and a half of water I started to feel more positive. Eventually I packed my boat and then took a compass bearing on what I could see of the mainland and launched out once again.

At this point the mainland was only about 3 km away from the beach where I was rested up. As I paddled out into the Sound of Taransay again the full force of the wind rain and sea spray hit me but this time I felt much warmer and in control. My kayak was sitting much deeper and heavier in the water. My shoulder still ached but the main land was getting nearer and nearer all the time which was spurring me on. I took one last look back to see how much progress I was making and still there was no sign of life. As I pulled round the headland I could just to say make out four figures on the beach and some headlights flashing at me which was Wendy. Everyone was all right.

Sea Kayaking is a great sport but unfortunately there are occasions when things don't go to plan and are put out of our control. Whilst I experienced problems, it should be noted that Pete, Nick, Clare and Westy had no problems and had a good memorable day out.

Somebody once wrote "Mother Nature over looks no mistakes and pardons no oversights" I had made a big oversight!

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Around Taransay in an Afternoon

Richard Wormauld