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Three Cavemen in a Boat

Friday 26th May - Thursday 1st June 2000

During our caving trip to Assynt in northern Scotland last October we were taking in the magnificent view from the GSG's caving hut in Elphin. Suilven dominates the scene and no one with blood in their veins could fail to feel its draw. Alison and I were fresh from a Canadian canoeing trip to northern Sweden last summer and were enthusiastic about canoe access to remote areas. Hours were spent poring over maps and a plan began to evolve...

Friday 26th May saw Kirsti, Alison & I travelling north. After much deliberation over the weather forecast, we decided to head for Kinloch Hourn and duly arrived at 1:30 a.m. After a few hours kip in the car we packed up the boat and headed out into a light headwind and flood tide on Loch Hourn. We had been warned that the second narrows could be tricky on the left, but there was very little tide running. We bypassed Barrisdale Bay (bit busy there - about 3 buildings and a dozen tents) and found our own little bay further west for a base. We set up camp, had a brew and, as it was only mid-afternoon, pondered how to spend the rest of the day. As the weather was good and we were right at the base of Ladhar Bheinn, the decision was easy. 31/2 hours saw us at the top via the fine Druim a Choire Odhair ridge. A wander along the summit ridge revealed wonderful views of Knoydart and out to Skye and the Hebrides before we descended via Choire Odhair to reach camp at 9 p.m. Sunday's weather was a bit less promising, but we managed to traverse Luinne Bheinn from Mam Barrisdale to Mam Unndalain. The top was in the 'clag' but we enjoyed good views on the way up and down. We returned to camp, combed the beach for wood and enjoyed an evening by the fire. On Monday we packed up and paddled the 10km back to Kinloch Hourn, pausing to pick mussels off the rocks for tea. Briefly back to civilisation we drove further north for the next stage of our trip.

We arrived at Elphin late in the afternoon and asked to use the track down to Loch Veyatie. Once again the canoe was loaded and I parked the car up on the roadside as a huge hail shower swept over. We set off into the stiff breeze and soon rounded a corner with our objective in prominent view. Suilven dominated the approach and grew in both size and seeming impregnability as we neared. Another heavy hail shower gave us another good drenching before we reached the west end of the loch and the start of Uidh Fhearna. A flat grassy area looked ideal and we set up camp with Suilven in full view. The mussels were delicious and the subsequent sunset magnificent. Tuesday saw us on a leisurely, but pathless approach to Suilven from the south. A path was met at the base of the scree and continued steeply to Bealach Mor. We passed the amazing wall across the ridge and continued upwards on Suilven's summit ridge - not the best of places for the vertically challenged. The summit was in cloud but this rolled back to allow views of the surrounding area, out to Lewis and Harris and along the amazing summit ridge. We decided to descend to the north (slightly less steep and we had plenty of time) and circuited the western end of the mountain with excellent views of Inverpolly before dropping down to Fionn Loch and returning to camp along the river. We had a brew, packed up and made easy work of the return to Elphin with a following wind. A short car journey to the Stac Pollaidh car park and we decided to camp up and save the next paddle for the morning.

The next paddle was a short one with a challenging wind across Loch Lurgainn to an idyllic campsite near the stream descending from Lochans Dearg and Tuath. Camp was set up again and we set off again following the stream upwards into the corrie in fine, sunny weather. Our route was pathless again and led directly below the stunning cliffs of Sgurr an Fhidhleir. We took the gully to the SE of this up to the ridge. Turning left took us up the steep grassy slopes onto Ben Mor Coigach. We traversed the ridge of a mountain that must have some of the finest views anywhere - a real treat in the fantastic weather. Our return journey was northwestwards along the ridge taking in the airy summit of Sgurr an Fhidhleir and making a pathless return to our camp. Unfortunately the wind had dropped and the midgies were out in force, which led to an enforced period in tents. We eventually came out like beekeepers and managed to get a fire going and eat our meal and savour the rest of the whisky. Thursday morning saw us pack up for the short paddle out (midgies bad again) and then pack up the car to return home through some horrendous downpours.

Paul Brooks

Last Modified: 7 May, 2003